Know What You're Paying For...

Some people have asked about the stones I use, what "faceted" means and what's the difference between gold-filled and gold-plated and gold-tone; or what is rhodium and what is wirework and why does it matter.

So based on research I've done and own my experience with different beading materials, I thought to put together a quick guide to all things bling so that you know what you're looking at, buying or getting as a prezzie!

Choices, Choices!
Isn't it fantastic that there is a dizzying array of jewellery out there? From Tiffany to pasar malam stalls, there are shops selling baubles and bling to suit every budget and taste.

And when it comes to acquiring pieces -- especially hand-crafted items over the Internet, at fairs or at shops -- perhaps the most important question to ask yourself is: "Do I really like it and am I willing to pay the price asked?"

If the design and price are right for you, go for it! What's important is that you are happy with your acquisition.

But just be very aware of what you're getting so you don't end up disappointed later. Here are some things you may want to look out for:

1. Workmanship
Perhaps the first thing to look at is the overall construction of the piece. Does it look rough or more refined? Does it look like it can be worn without breaking?

Shoddy workmanship can ruin a potentially beautiful piece ... and cause it to come apart. But please know that all hand-crafted jewellery is more fragile than machine-produced pieces. So treat your pieces with care and they'll last a lot longer.

Look for neat wirework. Think of sloppy wirework as loose buttons on a shirt -- they may look good on the surface, but sooner or later, your shirt comes apart.

Clasps should be sturdy. Heavier pieces need sturdier clasps. Delicate pieces need not-so-chunky clasps.

No beading wire should stick out of necklaces or bracelets. Even a tiny bit can irritate your skin.

2. Stones, crystals and glass
Glass. Generally, stones cost more than glass or plastic although there are some gorgeous lampwork and Venetian/Murano glass beads which are works of art -- and that's reflected in their prices.

Look out for imitation Venetian/Murano glass beads from China which have flooded the market. They're pretty too, but they are not Murano glass and so should not cost as much.

Stones. Where stones are concerned, natural or man-made also makes a difference. And even with natural stones, there are different grades/qualities, which are reflected in the price as well.

Oh, and there are lots of "imposters" out there -- for example, I've seen dyed howlite masquerading as turquoise or lapis lazuli.

What gives them away? Usually their ridiculously low price compared to the real thing... and their colour sometimes.

There is nothing wrong with dyed howlite as long as you know it's dyed howlite.

And another thing -- all natural stones have their own "imperfections". No two stones will ever be exactly alike, which is what makes them beautiful. Man-made stones tend to have a more uniform look.

Crystals. Swarovski crystals are known for their inimitable shimmer.

There are other types of man-made crystals out there, but I really like Swarovski. I personally think that they sparkle much better than the others.

3. Gemstones - what to look out for?
Not too many beaders work with gemstones because they're expensive (the real cheap ones may possibly be glass or acrylic), but ohhhh so beautiful! So when you're getting something with gemstones, keep an eye out for:

Clarity: Usually, the clearer the stone, the higher the price. Say for example, you have two stones. One is a nugget and the other is half its size, but highly polished and relatively clear. Which do you think is more "valuable" and thus costs more?

Type of Gemstone: Some gemstones cost more than others too, even if they're about the same colour. For example, both yellow topaz and citrine are yellow stones. But topaz costs more than citrine.

Cut: How gemstones are cut also affects their price. Normal round gemstones are generally cheaper than faceted gemstones, even if they're exactly the same stone and exactly the same size. Facets make a stone sparkle more.

All this said though, please don't look for perfection. Natural stones have inclusions. If you want perfect stones, go to super high-end jewellers ... and go with a fat bank account.

4. All That Glitters is Not Gold?
Know your metals.There is gold-coloured metal, gold-plated, gold-filled and gold:

- Gold-coloured = Coloured metal, no gold content at all

- Gold-plated = Base metal covered with one coating (or more) of gold. There is also pewter plated with gold (or silver).

- Gold-filled = metal core with gold permanently bonded over it, usually in 14K. Many say that gold-fill is as good as gold and I happen to believe so too, and its price is usually tagged to the price of gold. That is why it costs a lot more than gold-plated items ... but less than real gold.

- Gold = the real stuff. Legally, only 10K gold and above can be referred to as "gold"! (Found this out on a Discovery Channel program). Gold costs significantly more than gold-fill and real gold components for beading are very hard to come by and very expensive. For example, ear hooks can cost close to $100 a pair. If anyone knows of cheaper sources, please drop me an e-mail as I'm on the lookout.

So when someone tells you they use "gold," ask if it's gold gold, or gold-plated, gold-fill or gold-coloured metal. There is nothing wrong with any of them, but know what you are getting.

Between gold-plated and gold-fill, gold-fill tends not to tarnish and lasts almost as long as real gold if you take care of it properly. But you pay for it as gold-fill components can cost up to 10 times more than gold-plated components (it also happens to have about 100 times more gold!).

Gold-plated components -- especially the higher-quality ones -- can last quite a while too, and are a good choice for the price-conscious or when using gold-fill will just blow the budget. Just avoid contact with perspiration and keep it dry and clean.

Real gold components cost the most. If you want an item made with real gold, your best bet is to visit a jewellery store or goldsmith.

I've met salespeople in department store counters who claim that what they're selling is real gold. But further prodding revealed that they meant gold-fill, not gold! So be aware.

5. The silver metals
Fine silver is seldom used by beaders because it's super soft. 925 silver has some other metals added to make it more sturdy.

Silver tends to tarnish though, especially when exposed to the air. So to keep your silver items looking good always, store them in a ziplock bag or away from the elements. A simple buffing with a silver polish cloth gets rid of tarnish!

There is non-tarnish silver (argentium) in the market too, but that costs quite a bit! I have a spool of argentium wire and still haven't used it.

Rhodium is from the platinum family and rhodium does not tarnish. It is the most expensive precious metal, so many of the rhodium components you see on jewellery are actually rhodium-plated, which eventually wears away, but if taken care of properly, will last a long, long time -- often much longer than gold-plating.

Generally speaking, 925 silver components cost quite a bit more than rhodium-plated (commonly referred to as just plain rhodium) components.

6. Charmed, I'm sure!
Charms can add such character to jewellery pieces, and I ADORE using them. They come in a variety of metals too, from normal base metal to lead-free pewter, 925 silver and gold-fill.

- Base metal/plastic = Most cost-effective, many come from China

- Lead-free pewter = Tend to cost more, many are from the US

- Plated = The ones from Japan are of particularly good quality. There are also a number of charms in the market which are pewter plated with gold or silver. I happen to like these plated pewter charms! (PS. The Egyptian snake and fairy in the pic on the above right are pewter plated with silver and gold respectively).

- 925 silver/gold-fill = You pay a premium for these.

7. Ear hooks and ear posts
These are the two most common ear thingies there are. Both are easily available and easy to use.

Ear hooks tend to be a little more cost effective than ear posts though, as more metal is used to make posts.

I usually use only 925 silver or gold-fill for my ear hooks and posts because I find that they tend to irritate the skin less.

On occasion, especially for the more casual pieces, I do use rhodium-plated or surgical steel ear hooks. When I do, you'll find it clearly stated in the description.

8. Stringing Material
For most beads, beading wire/tigertail is best. The Beadalon brand is available in many bead shops here. I don't use nylon because it tends to get brittle after a while and breaks. For finer pieces, I really prefer the higher-end beading wire which is more flexible and kinks less.

When stringing pearls, use silk thread.

Oh wow, sorry for this novel! I just thought to share. If you have any other info you think should be added, just let me know. Thanks.